(! Disclaimer ! I've started and stopped this post so many times, it may read like a 6-year old wrote it, with apologies to 6-year-olds everywhere. I'll fix it when I get time, so no Howlers please!
(Disclaimer #2 - 3/26/2012 - After losing all the blog pictures, I'm reconstructing this post, and all posts, again so if something seems out of sequence, it probably got juggled around. Sorry. Send me a note if something's missing or doesn't make sense.)
My next move on the Joker bike was to relocate the speedometer. So far, things have been relatively easy, but this modification involved a little more serious wiring, including cutting the wiring harness to the existing LED display lights and splicing the Joker Machine LED leads into it. It had to be right, and it had to be done neatly since all this is out there where everyone gets to see your work. It ain't like you can wrap a roll of black tape around it and walk away.
For the record, Joker says the necessary electrical work is straightforward. Maybe so, but if wiring isn't your area of expertise, it does require a little patience. I had to take my time.
- Remove brake caliper by removing 2 mounting bolts. Pull it over to the RH side of the bike and let it rest between the front exhaust pipe and the cylinder.
- Remove axle nut
- Remove pinch bolt on right side of axle, remembering that the socket head was in front with no washer.
- Pull out the axle, paying attention to where the wheel spacers are. The thicker one on mine was on the left side.
- I had to let the air out so the tire would squeeze between the fender mount bolts
- Then the fender came off, tucked safely out of the way in case I started throwing stuff. Didn't want to scratch up that new pin-striping with a flying wrench.
- Loosen the two left side clamp bolts on the triple trees and the left fork tube easily slides down
Disconnect your battery before messing with the wiring.
Next step is to remove the speedometer. Take the two allen screws out of the backing plate, unplug the harness, unscrew the odometer reset button from the backing plate (just squeeze and twist), and pull the rubber retainer seal from around the base of the gauge. The speedo then comes right out. Click this for a YouTube video that shows the steps. The video suggests a different way of dealing with the LEDs, so if you're using the Joker mount, ignore that part, but it was helpful to me for getting my speedo apart. Beats the fuck out of saying "remove speedo" and having some poor bastard like me fumble through, breaking stuff.
Leave the speedo mount/top cap on for now.
OK, let's finish up this project. Next I installed the new risers, which is simple enough. I'll mention that I should have touched up the shiny bands on the bars with some flat black paint before mounting. The risers don't cover them up. Ask me how I know.
Don't fully tighten the riser mounting bolts until after you clamp the handlebars in place. Clamping the bars helps line the risers up, so tighten the top clamps first, and then finish tightening the riser bolts.
OK, stay tuned for the next installment. Air cleaner and whatever else I can find, but there's actually not much more I wanna do right now, figuring I'll get some riding out of the Joker before tearing it apart again.