Day 1 of Ride, Christiansburg, VA

264 miles for a head start. Snuck out early and was able to escape the DC rush hour traffic. Can get a decent rum to Bristol in the morning and get off this damn interstate. Played leapfrog with trucks and tourists all the way.

Every time I've stopped, a conversation started, with people interested in the bike and where I'm heading. Surprised looks when I tell them New Orleans. Maybe I don't look capable?!?! LOL. At least I know I won't be starving for conversation or company. I love the South.

So here's tonight's campground. Nothing dramatic. Cracker Barrel across the lot and all the Virginia Tech girls I can eat. Woops. Can't believe I said that.......

Cowboy

On the road

Finally. At about 3PM, right after I post this, I'll put the helmet on and get the hell out of Dodge. I just couldn't wait until tomorrow....

Stay tuned..... Here's the bike all loaded up. A trained eye will notice the Twizzlers peeking out of the windshield bag. Never leave home without Twizzlers and Cool Blue Gatorade.

Cowboy

The Route.....

So here's the rough plan....2700 miles, total. Any or all subject to change depending on weather, traffic, interest, disinterest, or running into the right new "friend" who has something better in mind. I'm not even ruling out the Auto-Train from Orlando if my ass just can't take it anymore. The one thing I'm sure of is hitting New Orleans, on or about July 7th.

Alexandria, VA

Bristol, TN

Nashville, TN

Cherokee, AL

Tupelo, MS

Canton, MS

Jackson, MS

Vicksburg, MS

Natchez, MS

New Orleans, LA

Mobile, AL

Gulf Breeze, FL

Panama City, FL

Eastpoint, FL

St Teresa, FL

Tallahassee, FL

Savannah, GA

Charleston, SC

Myrtle Beach, SC

Raleigh, NC

Alexandria, VA


That oughta do it!

Cowboy

Storm

OK, as selfish as this is going to sound, I was very relieved to hear that the storm threatening the Gulf was headed for Mexico instead. And it's selfish because I was concerned I was going to hit the storm as I rode south.

Sure I'm worried about all the oil, the dolphins, the pelicans, the folks on the coast, and whatever, but I couldn't help thinking about the trip too.

There, I've said it.

Cowboy

Almost time.....Last minute stuff

I roll out in 6 days and not much left to do now but figure out finances and settle in on a general route.

I finally got up the balls to add up receipts. So far, I've spent almost as much money on bike stuff as I had budgeted for the whole fucking ride, which was something of a jolt, but I guess that's what credit cards are for. First the T-Bag, then the windshield (with deflectors and a windshield bag), then the GPS, then the safety inspection, then the new brakes, and finally two new tires ($603!). And yes, the much-admired chrome cup holder. Bottom line: There won't be many extended stays in 5-Star hotels, and a few meals might consist of beef jerky and water. Hell, maybe I'll lose a little weight, but at least I won't have to worry too much about the bike.

I need to throw in a plug for the service department at Patriot Harley Davidson, Fairfax, Virginia. Jeff and George, who knew what I was planning, gave me solid advice on tires, etc, and I suspect, also made sure my scoot was ready for the long haul. And beyond the practical stuff, Marika at Patriot reminded me that a trip like this is a chance to meet people, share experiences, soak up the culture, with the result of returning to DC with a different perspective. She's a cool lady, and I wish I thought like she does. It's refreshing to meet people like that.

Packing is done, sorta. Got one saddlebag full of spare parts, tools, and a first-aid kit...the other has rain gear, a bike cover, leathers, face shield and an extra helmet. (Hey, you never know when a suitable passenger might jump on the back!). Will pack clothes last, the few that I'm taking.

The route choice is driving me up a wall....so many excellent choices. Irish Mike, also at Patriot Harley Davidson, suggested an awesome route called Natchez Trace, running from just south of Nashville to Natchez, Mississippi. Then there's the route through Asheville which gives me a little time with kayaking friends.

I'm still not going to commit to hard dates and having a set itinerary, but guess I gotta have a rough plan.

As attractive as the Natchez Trace Parkway is, I'm thinking that it might actually hide what I'm trying to see.....the real South. I want to see the small towns, eat at Mom & Pop diners, and stay in off-interstate motels. That's the trip goal...It's not a destination-oriented trip...the TRIP is the theme. Still, that Natchez Trace route is extremely inviting. I'm running the first day to Bristol, TN, and when I wake up the next morning, that's the day I make the final decision. The decision might even be determined by which traffic light is green: Nashville or Asheville.

And I'll hook up with Linda and Charlie Pearce in Nawlins. We're going to have one hell of a good time for a few days. Linda made me promise to ride through the French Quarter one night with just my cowboy boots on. Stay tuned for pix...... Hey, maybe I'll get some beads! Linda and Charlie will be on their own Great Southern US Tour, and we're lucky enough to be able to cross paths in NOLA. Pretty cool.

I'm just about settled in on a route back. New Orleans to Panama City, Florida...over to Savannah...Charleston......up the coast, swinging over to Raleigh, hopefully to see my friends Emerson and Deb. I figure I'll be averaging about 250-300 miles a day. Maybe I can find a little beach town for a day's rest from riding.

Or maybe I'll find something else interesting to see/do. As long as I'm back by the 18th, the route really doesn't matter as long as it's fun.

So right now, it's Saturday morning and I'm here at the computer drinking coffee, screwing around with Google Maps, and I'm as excited as a kid waiting for Santa Claus. I simply can't WAIT to get on the road next Friday.

Cowboy

Closer....but the rubber hasn't met the road.

Well friends, there just isn't a lot of new stuff to report. 10 days and counting.

I'm mostly doing the little things now, preparing for a extended absence....and for me, 16-17 days out of town IS a long time.

After considering about eleventy-six solutions, I settled on running the GPS power wire over, under, and around stuff to tie into the battery via the Harley battery tender connector, preserving the stock wiring and probably preventing a mid-trip wiring disaster.

And thanks to a lot of concerned folks, starting with my knowledgeable neighbor, John, and ending with my son, Kenny, I'm giving into pressure and having my front tire replaced before I start out. Kenny and my bro John Carlsson ganged up on me yesterday and beat me into submission, although one beer-fueled vote in my favor came in. Some guy came by, Bud in hand, heard our discussion, and announced that "I run 'em 'til the cords show!", and moved on. Of course, it's safe to say his travels were bar-to-bar runs, and not 1100 miles to New Orleans. I'll add a honorable mention to the Jagermeister girls who didn't vote at all, but helped change the damn subject!!!! I give in, I'll do it!!!

Father & Son!

So I've also given my son a means to track my progress, or lack of, via my cell phone and getting other little details taken care of. Now I just need to find a dealer who has a tire in stock and get it mounted.

Stay tuned

Cowboy

Time flies.....sometimes

Tonight I dug out the T-Bag and started packing a few things, and of course I realized that this might be just a little premature....Or a lot.

It ain't like I'm moving out and need to start wrapping the breakable stuff in advance. In fact, I can probably pack everything I can carry in about 1/2 hour, but I'm just itching to get out of here and get on the road....

I am taking chaps and a leather jacket, but I'll bet they stay in the bags. Rain gear goes on top.

Everything but the GPS is mounted and stays on the bike for the duration. I'll get to the GPS tomorrow and the bike will be ready. Now it's just a matter of waiting.

I'm not good at that.

Cowboy

Is it time to go? Are we there yet?

It's 3 weeks until I leave and I practically can't stand the wait. I am soooo excited about the ride it ain't funny. I'm sure my friends are as sick of hearing me talk about it as I am eager to chat away....Sorry, but it'll get worse before it gets better. Probably MUCH worse.

Latest minutiae:

I scrapped the netbook idea and sent it back. Blogging and a few pix will happen from my iPhone. And I'll buy another SD card for the camera to store better pix on and download them later...

I'm using the refund from the netbook to get a decent motorcycle GPS, and that seems to make a lot more sense. Who knows what back roads I might get lost on, and cell service isn't always available.....Proved that coming back from Charlotte 2 weekends ago.

All the other junk is in, and at some point I'll have to break down, install it all, and leave it on the bike. I'll just have to get used to it. When packed, I'll probably be carrying 100-125 pounds of gear....maybe a little more......

I did make some hotel reservations for Birmingham, a reluctant lean toward having an itinerary, but I do want to get back to Barber Motorsports Museum for a second look, and figured having a decent place to stay that night made sense. The next morning, I make the run from Birmingham to New Orleans to hook up with my playmates.

And last but not least, I'm damn near broke from buying all this stuff, but I gotta go. It'd be poor form to buy gear for a trip, but not be able to go because you spent all the money on gear instead of the trip. Or something like that.....

Cowboy

Safety First

So I'm riding around a little yesterday and it suddenly occurred to me that I'd had my bike for almost exactly 2 years. And THEN it occurred to me that the factory warranty had just run out. And THEN it occurred to me that the Virginia State Safety Inspection might be due. A stop and a peek at the state sticker revealed the awful truth. I was due!! Yikes.

So after a couple "Oh Shits" plus a "Dammit" or two, I remembered having a 5 year extended warranty...a good thing. Also got an extra tire and wheel warranty, so that worry didn't last long. And you know what?: Maybe a safety inspection before hitting the road ain't such a bad thing either. I'll get that out of the way this weekend, and I'll carefully read that extended warranty paperwork.

Cowboy
6/7/2010

P.S. I bought a damn cup holder yesterday. Can you believe that? A fucking cup holder for my motorcycle. I should have my ass kicked for fucking up a cool bike with all this extra crap (but I'll bet I appreciate all of it on the long ride, so let me slide, please! I promise to strip it back down when I get home.)

P.P.S. The inspection station guy said the bike needed back brake pads, and he was definitely correct. Glad the inspection happened to be due or I might have had some issues during the trip. So, I did the work myself today....Sat, 6/12, and I think the bike is ready to go. I'll get all the crap bolted back on....maybe tomorrow.

Odds & Ends

Spent the day gathering up odds & ends that I hope I won't need. Got a small socket set and some Allen wrenches. And other small hand tools. Went to Harley Davidson and got spare fuses and light bulbs. And to REI for a first aid kit.

All that stuff goes in a bottom corner of the saddlebags, and with luck, will never see daylight. Or moonlight. Speaking of which, I probably should take a flashlight.

Now I'm painting these chrome deflectors black so Bev will stop making fun of me. I need to get them, along with the windshield and bags, put back on. Need to get used to the road-warrior look. Here's the last view of them before the paint started spraying, and yes, I moved the car out before I started.

After painting, and re-installed:

Had some interest today from a lady who might want to ride along. She's got her own Harley. We'll see.

All for today.
Cowboy

sent from iPhone Land.....

Olde Town Inn, New Orleans

Here's my single concession to "a plan". I figured having a comfortable place at the halfway point in New Orleans would be important, and I'll be there a few days.

http://www.oldetowninn.com/

Turns out getting a hotel with parking near the French Quarter isn't all that easy, and getting parking for the Harley was a bit harder. I searched and found the Old Town Inn which, besides being a cool old place, is motorcycle-friendly and has off street parking.

This one looks homey enough that I can kick back and relax without having someone pointing fingers at that "biker guy" over in the corner. It's about 6 blocks from the French Quarter, and I scored a 2 bedroom suite for less than 100 a night, with a fridge and TV.

So now I'm thinking about having some company down that way.... New friends and old......


Cowboy

Reality of a long road trip vs. Blogging

OK, so the next big decision is whether maintaining a blog while on the road makes any sense. Lugging a laptop for the trip seems a little close to the "ball and chain" connectivity I have every second of every day and night. Am sorta thinking that NOT having easy Internet access, aside from the iPhone, might have the net effect of getting me out to see what (and who) there is to see.

But the blogging would be fun, I think....at least now and then. I'd just have to discipline myself to NOT log onto work email all the time.

Speaking of which, I've decided that the first day is going to be spent on the Interstate, getting as many miles between me and DC as possible. This means the adventure of side roads and small towns won't begin until a day or so after I leave, when there's (hopefully) some distance between traffic lights.

Weather note:
I fucking drowned yesterday riding the Harley back from Annapolis, and of course the windshield and deflectors were safe and sound stashed under my bed. I hit three separate rain squalls between Annapolis and Alexandria, and all I had on was a t-shirt. And a little helmet and goggles. And yeah, jeans and boots too. Though I almost can't stand to see them on the bike, I also couldn't help but wonder how much difference the windshield and deflectors would have made yesterday.

Signing off

Cowboy

P.S. One less stop to make on the trip. Got the other tattoo freshened up last night, so the thought of hitting an cool little alleyway tattoo parlor down in New Orleans can be scratched off the list of things to do. Maybe.

Putting it together.....From cool to trip-worthy.

So it's a cinch that the factory-equipped (and very cool if I must say so), 105th Softail Custom just isn't going to be able to haul enough stuff for a long trip, and the bugs down south are the size of birds....and then  there's the birds. And I need something to charge the phone and maybe a GPS to get me un-lost when on those back roads. Knowing all that, I started with this:

and added this:

and this:

.......and started ending up with something like this.....haven't yet had it all installed at once. I just can't bring myself to do it....

 

This is collectively more junk than I've ever had on a motorcycle. Windshield and saddlebags? Are you fucking kidding me?

Cowboy

New Orleans.....Or not.

Thoughts for the day.....

Been working on my checklist of stuff to take....I got the Harley Owners Manual out last night so I don't forget it. Have 99% decided to mount my Hummer GPS on the bike, so I need a mount and cover to keep the rain off.

Have also decided to paint those awful chrome lower wind deflectors black so I don't look like some reject from a Ben Hur movie going down the highway. They work, but they sure don't look good. I also don't want Dave Shapiro or Bev Gottleib making fun of me.

....on another note:

This adventure is supposed to be fun, with a little extra time spent in New Orleans to relax, get over the stiffness of a long ride, eat some good food and listen to a little music on Bourbon Street.

But I'm increasingly distracted (who isn't) by this dreadful environmental disaster going in the Gulf. I'm just not sure if this endpoint of the journey is the right one. I was about to make some plans for a New Orleans hotel last night and something was holding me back. I think I'll open up a map again tonight and consider other options.

Vacation aside, I'm personally upset over this awful mess in the gulf....It's just wrong and I can't believe BP, or someone else, can't devise a solution to stop this oil from pumping into the water and killing off the fish, birds and wildlife. And effecting those who's lives depend on the Gulf.

Sorry to get off on some political rant....this is just bothering me, and moreso each day.

Cowboy

Post #2, the Starting Point. It isn't a place, it's an event. How the hell did this start, anyway?

My Old School 63 Panhead...Old School Cowboy, too!

Obviously, you just don't jump on and go, right? The trip for me actually started in May of 2008. Though I'd ridden, I hadn't owned a bike for a number of years. I had been on the fence about one for about a year when an old friend called me. My childhood next-door neighbor from North Linthicum, John G.

I hadn't seen John for years, but he and I grew up together, and together we'd put a lot of miles on motorcycles. We'd also spent a couple years as members of the same motorcycle club (another story for another time). During this conversation, while we were catching up on old times, John told me he was still riding, that other friends are still riding, and he wondered why the hell I wasn't riding!

What's a guy to do? I went right out and bought a brand new 2008 Harley Davidson Softail Custom 105th Anniversary Edition!! June 1, 2008 is the date on the paperwork, and it was my very first new Harley. It's one of about 7 in a string of Harleys I owned over the years. I give John full credit for the bike and think of him every damn month when I make the payment.

So I guess that was the start point.....getting back on a Harley. There were actually a few new things to get used to. For one, I always rode choppers, and this thing had features I was unfamiliar with: Front brakes, a front fender, shocks, a comfortable seat, lights that actually worked, turn signals, and of all things, a horn. And yeah, there were two more gears after 4th, though I rode around in 4th for a while before I realized that. The coolest thing, though, was having a gas gage. I ran out of gas all the time riding choppers. And yeah, there's one other nifty feature: A warranty!

And I have to add this. For the first year or so, I was always looking down on both sides of the bike, and watching behind me, though I wasn't conscious of doing it. John finally busted me for it, reminding me that this wasn't a chopper and I wasn't in danger of losing parts on a long ride! On those old ones, I never got anywhere with everything I left with; I was always watching out for missing parts so I could double back to get whatever fell off. Old habits die hard.

So the stage was set, sort of, and as time went on, I realized I just might be able to ride this bike on a long, long ride. One I'd always wanted to take. But I needed some new stuff....Stay tuned.

Cowboy

Kickoff...... Blog Post #1 of.....Well, it's anyone's guess.

Here we go....an attempt to document the fulfillment of a dream to ride across America on a motorcycle. I'm not doing the whole bit, East to West (My son did that and he's still got a sore back!), but I am planning a scaled-back adventure that starts in Alexandria, Virginia (my current home), though the south, to New Orleans, Louisiana. 
And back.



A goal for the trip is to avoid, whenever practical, the Interstate Highway System. Instead, I'm making my way through the Southeast via back roads and through small towns. I want to re-discover America, and maybe even my roots. I've always felt "southern", and consider myself a Texan (sorry Baltimore). For me, this is like a trip home.



My Mom and I spent many summer hours and countless miles on the roads between Baltimore and Fort Worth, Texas, and through the window of the car I saw countless places where I wanted to stop: Roadside stands, tourist traps, snake farms, and all those signs pointing toward something historic. On this trip, I'm making some of those stops, and might even spend a little extra time in a friendly town if the mood strikes. Even longer if one of the local ladies talks me into it. Of course, the local authorities might just encourage me to get my ass back on the Harley and move on. It'll be interesting to see how it all works out.



So with that intro, I'll try to tell you a little about my long-awaited trip, and maybe you can ride along with me...in spirit, anyway...on a trip where I'm looking for a little Southern Comfort.

PS - I'll probably lapse into using my old nickname, "Cowboy", through much of this. Old friends still call me that, and it somehow seems appropriate to resurrect the name for the ride.